Traditional Odessa Vertuta: Legendary Thin Pastry Rolls with Three Delicious Fillings

Discover the legendary pastry that can only be truly experienced in Odessa, Ukraine, and now in your own kitchen. Odessa Vertuta features paper-thin, crispy, flaky dough wrapped around luscious fruit or vegetable fillings, creating layers upon layers of buttery perfection. This budget-friendly recipe uses a unique scalded dough technique that takes just minutes to prepare, yet produces results that rival any bakery. The secret lies in pouring boiling water over the dough ingredients, creating an incredibly elastic, non-sticky pastry that rolls out translucently thin without tearing. Today you’ll master three classic fillings: golden pumpkin with orange zest, sweet nectarines, and tangy plums. Each vertuta showcases how simple ingredients can transform into something extraordinary when prepared with the right technique.

Ingredients

For the Scalded Dough (makes 4 vertuta):

• 700g/5½ cups all-purpose flour, plus 2-3 tablespoons extra as needed
• 3 large eggs
• 240ml/1 cup refined vegetable oil (neutral flavor)
• 240ml/1 cup boiling water
• 1 tablespoon granulated sugar (12g)
• 1 level teaspoon salt (5g)

For the Pumpkin Filling:

• 800g/1.75 lbs pumpkin (Hokkaido or butternut squash recommended)
• 3 level tablespoons cornstarch (24g)
• 4-5 tablespoons granulated sugar (50-65g), adjust to pumpkin sweetness
• 1 tablespoon chopped toasted walnuts (10g), optional
• Zest of 1 orange

For the Nectarine Filling:

• 400g/14 oz fresh nectarines (about 3-4 medium)
• 1-2 tablespoons cornstarch (8-16g)
• 2-3 tablespoons granulated sugar (25-40g), adjust to fruit sweetness

For the Plum Filling:

• 300-400g/11-14 oz fresh plums (about 6-8 medium)
• 1-2 tablespoons cornstarch (8-16g)
• 2-3 tablespoons granulated sugar (25-40g), adjust to fruit tartness

For the Egg Wash:

• 1 egg, beaten
• 1 tablespoon milk (15ml)
• Optional: coarse sugar for sprinkling

Instructions

Making the Scalded Dough:

In a large mixing bowl, crack the 3 eggs. Add 1 tablespoon of sugar and 1 level teaspoon of salt. Using a whisk, beat the mixture vigorously for about 30 seconds until smooth and well combined. Pour in 240ml of refined vegetable oil and whisk again until the oil is fully incorporated into the egg mixture.

Prepare 240ml of boiling water. This is crucial: pour the boiling water into the egg mixture in a very thin, steady stream while whisking constantly. This prevents the eggs from cooking and scrambling. Continue whisking as you add all the boiling water. This technique creates what’s known as scalded or custard dough, which has unique elastic properties.

Once all the boiling water is incorporated, immediately begin adding the flour. Add approximately 200g of flour at a time, whisking it in while the mixture is still hot. The heat helps the flour absorb the liquid more effectively. Continue adding flour gradually, switching to a spatula or wooden spoon when the mixture becomes too thick to whisk. You’ll use approximately 700g of flour total, but the exact amount may vary slightly.

When the dough becomes too difficult to mix with a spoon, transfer it to a clean work surface. Dust your hands and the surface lightly with flour. Knead the dough by hand, adding the remaining flour gradually. The dough should be soft, smooth, and slightly sticky at first. Continue kneading for 3 to 5 minutes, adding flour only as needed. The dough is ready when it becomes elastic, stops sticking to your hands, and has a smooth, uniform texture. You’ll notice oil from the dough coating your hands and the surface, which is perfect. The total flour used should be around 700-720g.

Shape the dough into a smooth ball. The dough should feel pleasant to work with, incredibly soft, elastic, and completely non-sticky. Cover the dough ball with plastic wrap or place it in a plastic bag. Let it rest at room temperature for 15 minutes while you prepare the fillings.

Preparing the Fillings:

For the pumpkin filling, peel the pumpkin and remove all seeds and stringy center parts. Do not grate it yet, as grated pumpkin releases juice quickly. Simply cut it into manageable pieces and set aside.

For the nectarine filling, wash and dry the nectarines. Cut them in half, remove the pits, and dice the flesh into 1 cm cubes. Place in a bowl and set aside.

For the plum filling, wash and dry the plums. Cut them in half, remove the pits, and dice the flesh into 1 cm cubes. Place in a separate bowl.

Assembling the Large Spiral Pumpkin Vertuta:

After the dough has rested for 15 minutes, divide it into 4 equal portions. Take one portion (reserve the rest under plastic wrap) and place it on a clean work surface. You do not need to flour the surface because the dough is already oily and won’t stick. Using a rolling pin, roll the dough into a large rectangle, rolling it as thin as possible. Aim for paper-thin thickness where you can almost see through it. The dough should be elastic and easy to stretch. You can even gently pull and stretch it with your hands to make it thinner.

Once rolled paper-thin into a large rectangle, lightly dust the entire surface with approximately 1 tablespoon of cornstarch. Spread it evenly with your hands. The cornstarch will absorb any juice released by the pumpkin during baking, keeping the filling inside and preventing it from leaking. Immediately grate the pumpkin directly onto the dough using a large-hole or medium-hole grater. Spread the grated pumpkin evenly across the dough, leaving a 2 cm border on all sides.

Grate the zest of one orange over the pumpkin, using only the bright orange outer layer and avoiding the white pith, which is bitter. The orange zest is the secret ingredient that makes pumpkin vertuta exceptional. Sprinkle 1 to 1.5 tablespoons of sugar over the pumpkin, adjusting based on the pumpkin’s natural sweetness. If using walnuts, toast them first in a dry pan or oven until fragrant, then chop and sprinkle 1 tablespoon over the filling.

Starting from one long edge, carefully roll the dough into a tight log, similar to a jelly roll. If the dough tears slightly in places, don’t worry; you can use a spatula to help guide it. The multiple thin layers created by rolling will produce the characteristic flaky texture. Once rolled completely, take the log and coil it into a spiral shape, like a snail shell. Tuck the end underneath to seal it.

Assembling the Rolled Vertuta (Nectarine and Plum):

For the remaining portions of dough, roll each one into a thin rectangle as described above. Dust lightly with about 1 tablespoon of cornstarch. Spread the diced nectarines over one rectangle, leaving a 3 cm border on the short ends. Sprinkle with sugar to taste, about 1-2 tablespoons depending on the fruit’s sweetness.

Begin rolling from one long edge, but after rolling about 5 cm, fold both short ends inward to seal the sides and prevent filling from leaking. Continue rolling, then fold the ends in again every few rolls. This creates a sealed log. The final vertuta should be a neat cylinder with the filling enclosed.

Repeat the same process with the plum filling on another portion of dough. If the plums are particularly juicy, you can let the diced plums sit with sugar for a few minutes, drain excess juice, then add cornstarch before assembling.

Baking:

Preheat your oven to 190°C (375°F). Line baking sheets with parchment paper. Place the formed vertuta on the prepared sheets, leaving space between each one. In a small bowl, beat together 1 egg and 1 tablespoon of milk. Brush this egg wash generously over the entire surface of each vertuta. If desired, sprinkle coarse sugar on top for extra crunch and sweetness.

Bake the large spiral vertuta for 35 to 40 minutes. Bake the smaller rolled vertuta for 40 to 50 minutes. Baking time varies depending on size and thickness. The vertuta are done when they’re deeply golden brown on top with a crispy, flaky crust. Some juice leakage is normal, especially with very juicy fruits like plums. Remove from the oven and let cool on the baking sheet for 10 minutes before transferring to a wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Time, Servings, and Nutrition

Prep Time: 30 minutes
Resting Time: 15 minutes
Cook Time: 40-50 minutes per batch
Total Time: 1 hour 45 minutes
Servings: 4 large vertuta (8-12 servings total)

Nutrition per serving (1/8 of one vertuta with pumpkin filling): Calories: 320 | Protein: 6g | Carbohydrates: 38g | Fat: 16g | Fiber: 2g | Sugar: 8g | Sodium: 160mg

Why This Recipe is Special

Odessa Vertuta represents a unique culinary tradition from Ukraine’s Black Sea coast, where thin pastry techniques meet abundant seasonal produce. The scalded dough method creates an exceptionally workable pastry that’s far easier to handle than traditional phyllo or strudel dough, yet achieves similar delicate, crispy layers. This technique makes professional-quality results accessible to home bakers without specialized skills or equipment. The pumpkin filling with orange zest delivers beta-carotene, fiber, and natural sweetness with minimal added sugar. Pumpkin is rich in vitamins A and C, supporting immune function and eye health. The nectarines and plums provide antioxidants, vitamin C, and dietary fiber while keeping sugar content moderate. Using cornstarch to thicken fruit juices prevents sogginess while preserving the fresh fruit flavor. The vegetable oil in the dough provides healthy unsaturated fats and creates the signature flaky texture without the saturated fat found in butter-based pastries. This recipe is also economical, using affordable staple ingredients to create an impressive dessert suitable for special occasions or everyday enjoyment. The versatility of this dough allows endless filling variations throughout the seasons.

Storage: Store baked vertuta wrapped in aluminum foil at room temperature for 2 days, or refrigerate for up to 5 days. Reheat in a 160°C (320°F) oven for 8-10 minutes to restore crispness. Unbaked assembled vertuta can be frozen for up to 1 month.